All Souls' Day: what opens and what to do in Copacabana, Rio

On the All Souls' Day holiday (Finados), on November 2, Rio runs on a Sunday rhythm: metro and buses on holiday schedules, bank branches closed, malls opening their stores only in the afternoon, and supermarkets, pharmacies and neighborhood restaurants open. In Copacabana, the lane of Avenida Atlântica next to the beach closes to cars during the day and the beachfront becomes the main program. The unusual movement is around São João Batista Cemetery, in Botafogo, just past the Túnel Velho tunnel.

What opens and what closes in Rio on All Souls' Day?

Finados is a national holiday, and the city follows its Sunday and holiday calendar. Bank branches do not open; Pix, banking apps and ATMs keep working, and bills due on the holiday can be paid on the next business day without penalty. Public services with in-person service, such as the social security agency (INSS) and the power and water utilities, also close and serve customers through digital channels.

In retail, malls usually open their stores in the early afternoon, around 1 pm, and close at 9 pm, with food courts and restaurants opening earlier. The large supermarket chains operate, some on reduced hours, and Copacabana's 24-hour pharmacies do not close. Bakeries, cafés, bars and street restaurants open as usual, since the holiday is a busy day in the neighborhood. In health care, municipal emergency units (UPAs) and hospitals operate without interruption. Since opening hours change from year to year, it is worth checking each place's website or social media before heading out.

How does public transport work in Rio on All Souls' Day?

The metro runs on holiday hours, from 7 am to 11 pm, the same schedule as Sundays, with Line 2 running only between Pavuna and Botafogo and the connection to Line 1 made along the shared stretch between Central and Botafogo. For guests staying in Copacabana, this means starting the day a little later than on a weekday and heading back before midnight. City buses follow the holiday timetable, with longer intervals, and the downtown VLT light rail also runs less frequently. Taxis and ride-hailing cars work normally; near the cemeteries, however, waiting times and traffic increase throughout the day.

What changes around São João Batista Cemetery?

São João Batista Cemetery, on Rua General Polidoro in Botafogo, is the only cemetery in Rio's South Zone and the closest to Copacabana. Opened in 1852, it holds the graves of figures such as Santos Dumont, Carmen Miranda and Tom Jobim, as well as the mausoleum of the Brazilian Academy of Letters, where Machado de Assis rests. On All Souls' Day it receives thousands of families, with masses throughout the day, usually every hour from morning to late afternoon, according to the schedule released each year, and the city traffic authority (CET-Rio) usually monitors Rua General Polidoro and Rua Real Grandeza, the main access streets. Real Grandeza is precisely the exit of the Túnel Velho, the direct link between Copacabana and Botafogo: on this day, traffic at the tunnel exit tends to slow down, and the Túnel Novo or the metro are usually more predictable routes to Botafogo and downtown.

It is a day of remembrance, not of tourism. A cultural visit to the cemetery, which offers guided tours throughout the year, is better saved for another date.

On All Souls' Day, the city closes its service counters and opens its beachfront: Copacabana keeps the beach, the promenade and an unhurried table.

What to do in Copacabana on the All Souls' Day holiday?

With the beachfront lane closed to cars during the day, as on every Sunday and holiday, the promenade and Avenida Atlântica itself are free for walking, running and cycling along the beach. If the day is hot, the sand fills up early, so the best beach window is the morning. Fort Copacabana, at the Posto 6 end of the beach, opens Tuesday to Sunday and on holidays, from 10 am to 7 pm, and combines a museum, views of the bay and a café. There are no visits on Mondays, but the rule may change in holiday weeks; when Finados falls on a Monday, it is worth checking before going. Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer operate every day, including holidays, and the guide on how to visit Sugarloaf from Copacabana without lines helps choose the time. In the late afternoon, the viewpoints at the Fort and Arpoador welcome the sunset, which in November happens after 6 pm.

For an indoor program outside the neighborhood, AquaRio, the marine aquarium in Gamboa, in the port area of downtown Rio, opens on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 9 am to 6 pm, with last entry at 5 pm; from Copacabana, the route is the metro to Carioca station and, from there, VLT Line 1 to the Utopia AquaRio stop. Many downtown museums close on Mondays; when Finados falls on a Monday, it is wise to check each museum's website before leaving. If the weather turns, the guide to theater, cinema and cafés in Copacabana on a rainy day gathers indoor options a few blocks from the beach.

How to plan an All Souls' Day outing from Copacabana?

1. Take care of shopping and cash withdrawals the day before: banks close, and mall stores only open in the afternoon.
2. Go to the beach or the promenade in the morning, when the beachfront lane is closed to cars and there is still room on the sand.
3. Check the hours of the day's paid outing, such as the Fort, the cable car or the aquarium, on the official website before leaving.
4. If driving to Botafogo, prefer the Túnel Novo or the metro, since the Túnel Velho exit runs past the cemetery area.
5. Remember that the metro usually closes at 11 pm on the holiday and plan the ride back from dinner accordingly.

Where to stay in Copacabana on a long holiday weekend?

When Finados falls next to a weekend, Rio receives visitors from other cities and Copacabana gets busier. The Argos Esmeralda and Safira studios are in the Armoleu building, on Rua Barata Ribeiro, a few blocks from the beach and the metro; they measure 30 m² and host up to four guests. With a full kitchen and a Nespresso machine, breakfast follows each guest's own pace, with no bakery line on a holiday; the washer-dryer handles beachwear; the 24-hour front desk supports guests in the building; and the soundproof window seal protects sleep on holiday nights. For everyday essentials, the guide to the pharmacy and market near the studios shows what is a few steps away.

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